The One about the Vampire

Why did the vampire subscribe to the Chicago Tribune?

He heard it had great circulation. 

Happy Halloween!

North Shore Amour Travels: Lisbon

Geoff took me to Lisbon in September for our anniversary. It was mild and warm, with expansive blue skies. There were lovely views of the sky and the water from the top of Lisbon’s steep hills. I stole peeks between white tiled buildings with orange roofs, leaning slightly over steep walls and steps to peer down at buildings and churches and life teeming below. 

The weather in Lisbon changes very quickly and the transitions are impressive. I’d look over my shoulder and see huge clouds sweeping in from the west and churning over the Atlantic, tumbling over themselves through the mouth of the Tagus river and towards the city, bearing down over me and giving me barely enough time to duck into a pasteleria to escape the sprinkles. I would stay there for a while, looking out the windows, kept company by Geoff and a tiny cup of coffee and a pastry. Just as quickly as they had come, the gray billowy clouds would rush away, and we’d emerge back onto the street, tiles on the ground and walls freshly rinsed by the rain.

Here comes a front!

My thought on Lisbon is that it is special because of its accessibility. Here is what I like about it: it presents a lovely culture and sophistication without the snootiness of Paris, it offers sights without the crowds of Rome, and it has coastal-type living, sea breezes, and fresh, unique food without the Spanish prices. It is lively, but not congested. It is evident that the city doesn't have as much physical historical depth as its close European cousins (an earthquake destroyed most of the city in the 1700s) but I thought that I could feel the history and a spirit of adventure and fun in this slippery, hilly, tiled city.

I also liked all the vinho.

We stayed in an apartment high above the city center near the Castle of São Jorge. I carried my suitcase up approximately 682349314 steps. We later learned that there was a public elevator nearby, built right into the hill. Joke’s on me.

Our apartment

The palace square was expansive, not terribly crowded, and it butted right up to the river. Just at the edge, there were steps where we could sit and watch the boats pass by.

We took the famous rattling trams a few times, but mostly we walked.

I thought that Parque Eduardo VII was lovely. I wanted to sit and read my book there all day. I was impressed that all the people respect the public space to keep it looking so beautiful.

Geoff sampled the local beers:

And got up close and personal with the art installations around the city:

And got so embarrassed when I took this picture of somebody’s undies flapping in the breeze. It’s one of my favorite pictures from the trip. 

We also went to Belem, had a custard pastry from Pastéis de Belém, and took a look around.

Jerónimos Monastery

I was especially charmed by all of the tile streets, paths, and sidewalks.

One night we were wandering around on top of the hill looking for dinner. We ran across this. I’m still not quite sure what it was – could this really just be young people having an impromptu dance party? Eventually we joined in, though we aren't great dancers. We must have been caught up in the Portugese spirit. 

Linked here: http://youtu.be/ayp5fJX5UC0

North Shore Amour Travels: Scuppernong Trail

I can think of few better ways to spend a crisp, chilly fall day than breathing fresh air, hiking in the trees, and spending the night under the stars with my husband and pup. 

Our hideout

Scuppernong Trail is only about an hour and a half drive from the North Shore.

I love the trail's massive pine trees, as much for the smell of pine needles under my feet as for the scenery.

A dog in the wild is a happy dog.

North Shore Amour Travels: London

I went to London for a week for business, so my leisure time was very limited. I did, however, spend some of that time trying to mimic the life of a Londoner: I watched bowls on TV, I drank ciders over ice at the pub, and I happily splashed my way through puddles in the chill October rain in my best work shoes. My umbrella became an extension of my arm, ever at the ready, deftly maneuvering under scaffolding and lifted high to wade through crowded street corners.

I also showed my truer American colors. I hummed Mary Poppins songs to myself while I navigated the streets; I shuffled confusedly through the pounds in my palm (why is the two pence piece so BIG?); and I routinely looked the wrong way on the street and stepped out into traffic, requiring a few heroic rescues from passersby.

Right now the Tower of London is hosting an amazing art installation, where the field outside of the tower is being gradually filled with ceramic poppies. The goal is to make and place enough poppies to represent every British military fatality during the first World War. It is moving when you stand and look over the field of red, especially when considering the installation’s title: Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red.

I stayed in a hotel near St. Paul’s cathedral.

I love this view, where it appears that St. Paul’s is floating above the River Thames:

I used the river as a reference point. On the north side, I made my way to Big Ben:

I loved the tour of Westminster. It holds so much special history.

I also walked all along the south side of the river. I felt that the surroundings invited me to stroll.

Borough Market

I checked. It was most decidedly not falling down.

I did have one night off to myself. I sat on the steps of St. Paul’s, bought a cup of fruit, read my book and watched people until it got dark.

I think London is smashing.

The One about Grape Juice

What sound does a grape make when you step on it?

Nothing much. It just lets out a little wine.

North Shore Amour Travels: Cleveland

It can be sad when friends move away, but I like to consider the silver lining: now there is a new place to visit and a place to stay when you go. That is how we ended up in Cleveland last weekend, to visit our friends Sarah and Matt. 

The song is true... Cleveland rocks! 

We visited the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, Mitchell's Ice Cream, the Market Garden Brewery and Beer Garden, and we got a good look at Lake Erie. (I'm partial to Lake Michigan, of course, but Erie wasn't half bad.)

We took a really neat tour of the Great Lakes Brewing Company. During our tour they were brewing their Christmas Ale, the air inside the brewery warm and spicy with cinnamon. It smelled like a Christmas wonderland in there. I loved it.

My favorite thing in Cleveland is the West Side Market, an indoor/outdoor market on the National Registry of Historic Places. The market is over 100 years old.

I bought a small loaf of olive bread for $1 and pulled off small bites as I wandered up and down the aisles, looking at everything the stalls had for sale. 

I got a kick out of these "puppy bones":

And the poem on these miniature Shepherd's pies:

The building was so beautiful. I could see myself coming here every weekend to stroll the aisles and buy good food for the week ahead. 

No dice getting in here!