North Shore Amour Travels: Lisbon

Geoff took me to Lisbon in September for our anniversary. It was mild and warm, with expansive blue skies. There were lovely views of the sky and the water from the top of Lisbon’s steep hills. I stole peeks between white tiled buildings with orange roofs, leaning slightly over steep walls and steps to peer down at buildings and churches and life teeming below. 

The weather in Lisbon changes very quickly and the transitions are impressive. I’d look over my shoulder and see huge clouds sweeping in from the west and churning over the Atlantic, tumbling over themselves through the mouth of the Tagus river and towards the city, bearing down over me and giving me barely enough time to duck into a pasteleria to escape the sprinkles. I would stay there for a while, looking out the windows, kept company by Geoff and a tiny cup of coffee and a pastry. Just as quickly as they had come, the gray billowy clouds would rush away, and we’d emerge back onto the street, tiles on the ground and walls freshly rinsed by the rain.

Here comes a front!

My thought on Lisbon is that it is special because of its accessibility. Here is what I like about it: it presents a lovely culture and sophistication without the snootiness of Paris, it offers sights without the crowds of Rome, and it has coastal-type living, sea breezes, and fresh, unique food without the Spanish prices. It is lively, but not congested. It is evident that the city doesn't have as much physical historical depth as its close European cousins (an earthquake destroyed most of the city in the 1700s) but I thought that I could feel the history and a spirit of adventure and fun in this slippery, hilly, tiled city.

I also liked all the vinho.

We stayed in an apartment high above the city center near the Castle of São Jorge. I carried my suitcase up approximately 682349314 steps. We later learned that there was a public elevator nearby, built right into the hill. Joke’s on me.

Our apartment

The palace square was expansive, not terribly crowded, and it butted right up to the river. Just at the edge, there were steps where we could sit and watch the boats pass by.

We took the famous rattling trams a few times, but mostly we walked.

I thought that Parque Eduardo VII was lovely. I wanted to sit and read my book there all day. I was impressed that all the people respect the public space to keep it looking so beautiful.

Geoff sampled the local beers:

And got up close and personal with the art installations around the city:

And got so embarrassed when I took this picture of somebody’s undies flapping in the breeze. It’s one of my favorite pictures from the trip. 

We also went to Belem, had a custard pastry from Pastéis de Belém, and took a look around.

Jerónimos Monastery

I was especially charmed by all of the tile streets, paths, and sidewalks.

One night we were wandering around on top of the hill looking for dinner. We ran across this. I’m still not quite sure what it was – could this really just be young people having an impromptu dance party? Eventually we joined in, though we aren't great dancers. We must have been caught up in the Portugese spirit. 

Linked here: http://youtu.be/ayp5fJX5UC0